![]() "It makes for moist meat, and it's almost foolproof, but it doesn't give the wood flavor that I'm obsessed with." From $260 La Caja China. "You put the pig in the box with charcoal on top," Brock says. Both of those have the genes of different breeds, which gives you a balanced animal-good meat-to-fat ratio in the belly, the hams aren't too big, the loin has the right amount of fat cap on it, and the shoulders are large and well-marbled. My ideal for whole-hog cookery is a 240-pound Farmers Cross, specifically, a Berkshire or Tamworth Cross.In my opinion, there isn't one piece of the pig that isn't perfect and delicious. The poor ate what's low, like the feet and the hocks. The rich people got the pieces from high on the hog, like the loin and the chops. The expression "eating high on the hog" has never made any sense to me.Everything else finds its way to the plate. Now nothing from the pig goes in the garbage, absolutely nothing except for the bones-and we don't throw them away until after we make stock from them. So the first time I took one to the abattoir I was nervous, but then this enormous amount of respect for the animals hit me like a ton of bricks. ![]() But the real turning point for me was when I started raising pigs myself. Maybe that's why I'm so obsessed with pigs now. I didn't ever have pepperoni pizza I never had bacon. That was on account of a strange religious thing having to do with the non-denominational church my family went to.
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